Streetstyle at Pitti Uomo, Photo @ Shutterstock
These are very interesting times for menswear fashion, never before have men had so much freedom to choose among the most diverse styles, from the über-dandy men street style in Florence during Pitti Uomo, to experimental, futuristic and bold looks in London and Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks.
Here are some highlights of the menswear Fall 2019 runway shows:
Hedi Slimane, the rock star of menswear, opened his first stand-alone show for Celine with an ’80s look: a double-breasted suit with skinny tie and dark sunglasses. The aesthetics of the ’80s and New Romantics was present in the whole collection. High waist pants with pleats and cropped-legs, layering of jackets and coats, leather jackets and leopard coats worn with tight black leather pants, a foulard and aviators; the perfect look for anyone who’s ever dreamt being Mick Jagger.
Olivier Rousteing’s Fall 2019 collection was about freedom. All the black and white looks of tuxedos and tweed jackets, parkas and bikers, could be worn by women or men. There was a lot of accessories, namely iPhones on metal and leather harnesses, and tiny round shades that seemed a hybrid of Matrix and Mad Max.
Her eco-conscious eponymous label dedicated the Fall 2019 collection to the Beatle’s Yellow Submarine ( hello, daddy ), which has just turned 50 and has been remastered. The designer was inspired by the message of the iconic cartoon movie, where the Beatles sang about “love, love, love” and “all together now”. We loved the coat with coloured stripes and the overall late ’60s feel.
Dries Van Noten
Van Noten’s men are a mix of the elegant David Bowie of the ’80s, with pleated pants and thin tie, and a psychedelic Jimi Hendrix with tie-dye suits, coats and pants. The looks are elegant and edgy at the same time.
Virgil Abloh opened Louis Vuitton Fall show with tailoring instead of the expected streetwear. He layered grey suits, long vests under jackets, cropped bomber jackets over tailored jackets and so on. Abloh transformed fanny packs into monogrammed jackets for LV 2019 collection, which was dedicated to Michael Jackson. The flag prints were a reference to the label’s travel heritage and the designer chose flags from the countries of the people working in his studio.
The designer Kim Jones presented a glamorous collection full of references. The sleek suits, tailored jackets and elegant coats had extra long scarfs that came from the inside of the lapels and were worn wrapped around the body with the long end hanging from the side almost like a train. Jones explained that the idea came from a 1955 dress he had seen in the Dior archives. Leopard and zebra prints were a reference to Christian Dior’s favourite patterns, the vests worn over suits very inspired in the armours of the heroes statues that Jones saw around Paris. The accessories were many, small leather cases with Dior’s logo that were clipped to a belt, fanny packs, arm-long gloves.
Images via Shutterstock