Get To Know Verdura, Chanel’s Jewellery Designer

12. Juli 2019

Even if you have never heard about Fulco Santostefano della Cerda, Duke of Verdura and Marquis of Murata la Cerda, you most probably know his work, especially the iconic pair of white cuffs with a big Maltese cross made of coloured gemstones that Coco Chanel used to wear every day, one on each arm.

Fulco di Verdura was born in 1898 in Sicily and grew up in his grandmother’s country house just outside Palermo, surrounded by all kinds of pets, from dogs to baboons and even a camel, and all the sumptuous luxury of Italian aristocracy. His cousin was the Sicilian prince and writer Giuseppe di Lampedusa who wrote the famous “The Leopard” that became a film with Alain Delon and Claudia Cardinale.

It was during his happy childhood in Sicily that Verdura developed his love for animals, nature, and arts and started sketching.

In 1919 Fulco met composer Cole Porter and his wife Linda who, six years later, threw a big party for American and European high society at their Palazzo in Venice and introduced Fulco to Coco Chanel. Chanel fell in love with his wit, charm and elegance, and invited him to design new textiles for her in Paris. Soon after, he re-designed some old jewellery she had, transforming them into iconic jewels. This was when Verdura discovered his passion and incredible talent for designing jewellery. His childhood in Sicily and nature inspired the blue-blooded designer, and he mixed coloured stones with shells or wood at a time when women almost only wore diamonds and pearls.

After eight years in Paris as head designer of Chanel jewellery, Fulco moved to New York where he opened his salon with the financial help of Cole Porter and Vincent Astor.

Everybody who was anybody wanted to have a jewel from the Aristocratic Duke who was famous for his joie de vivre, elegance and acid wit that made him the perfect guest at all the best parties.

His clients were Hollywood stars as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Katherine Hepburn, Paulette Godard, Millicent RogersJoan Crawford and Joan Fontaine, who wore Verdura’s brooch in Alfred Hitchcock’s film “Suspicion.” Also, aristocrats as the Duchess of Windsor and Countess Mona Von Bismarck, The Astor and Vanderbilts, the Duchess of Marlborough, Princess Grace of Monaco, Diana Vreeland and Jackie Kennedy, were among his clientele.

The stylish and unconventional socialite Babe Paley was his muse and a great friend and accompanied him on his many trips and parties around the world. Fulco was as much a style Icon as she was.

Verdura, as a real artist, rejected mass-production and commercialism. He designed personal pieces for his friends, and being an old-school aristocrat, he had not much interest in mundane things such as money, this is why he never became wealthy, but as his friends were, he was able to live his life in high style.

He retired in 1973 at the age of 75, selling his company to his long-time business associate Joseph Alfano and moving to London, where he lived and painted until his death.

In 1985, Ward Landrigan, the former head of USA jewellery division of Sotheby’s, purchased the company and since then, has kept alive his work and legacy.

Photos via Verdura and Wikimedia Commons