Martin Sturm is the owner of the gentlemen’s outfitters STURM in Vienna, a shop focused on men’s suits. The family business has been founded in the 1970?s so it’s safe to say that they are quite experienced when it comes to traditional menswear fashion. Being an expert in suits (and how to wear them), Martin Sturm answered some questions for us, giving tips and advice on how to pull off the perfect suit-look.
Which button stays unclosed?
The lowest button of the jacket has to stay open! A tradition, the goes back to the 1901 deceased British King Edward VII: The corpulent monarch wasn’t able to close the lowest button due to his big waist. The middle button has to be buttoned anyway. For the upper button, the decision is up to the wearer.
Are there differences for the lapel?
Definitely! For a ‘rolling’ lapel, you do the two-and-a-half-button or the hidden three-button. Thereby the upper button must not be closed because it is just pro forma.
What is to be considered at the choice of the shirt?
The beautiful symmetry of the lapel can be enhanced with the fitting collar. What works best is the so-called „New – Kent“- collar.
What kind of knot of the tie is the most suitable?
Hereby a double Windsor knot is ideal.
What figure flatters the 3-Button Suit?
Because a 3-Button Suit usually has a narrow lapel, the neckline is smaller what makes the upper body appear more voluminous. The model is perfect for tall and slim gentlemen, but also small men as the suit optically lengthens the torso.
Are there preferred colors?
With navy, light or dark grey and slightly textured materials, the gentlemen is peculiarly trendy.