Between cruises and crises
Initially made for clients who went on cruises or trips during the winter time, resort collections offered spring and summer clothing when the stores would normally sell winter apparel. Now you might ask yourself "Why are there coats then?" "Has climate change already gotten so bad that you would need them on your winter escape?" Well maybe, but the main reason is that resort collections are not built around the idea of getting away to warmer places in the colder season anymore. Designers mainly want to please a broad range of customers that are travelling all the time to any place.
Nowadays it almost seems that these collections have become a fixture in every prestigious fashion house. In addition to the seasonal ready-to-wear collections many brands are doing cruise or resort (and also pre-fall) and the big ones like Chanel, Gucci etc. don´t flinch from spending lots of money on their sometimes over 80 looks presented in the fanciest places around the world. The shows are real spectacles with hundreds of guests including clients, press, buyers and celebrities.
Sometimes though we have the feeling that it is all getting a bit too much. Ready-to-wear twice a year, resort, pre-fall, couture… it´s hard to keep up with the fashion calendar. Not just for us, but also for the designers themselves. This might also be the reason why many creative directors can´t withstand the ongoing pressure anymore and are throwing in the towel or why fashion houses are selling (parts of) their businesses to bigger firms these days (see Missoni or Dries van Noten). The fact that the industry somehow seems to be merely about making profit rather than creative ideas makes us question the idea behind these splendid presentations.
Nevertheless, the collections are there, they are stunning and want to be looked at. So, for some minutes forget about the current crisis and get inspired for your next vacation.
For this year´s cruise collection Karl Lagerfeld mixed the signature Chanel staples like tweed, sailor pants and pearls with 80´s elements. The broad shoulders, cropped jackets and large sleeves gave the collection a modern (yes, the eighties are considered modern) touch without taking away its feminity.
Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the Mexican escaramuza riders, female rodeo riders who tend to wear fabrics like linen and cotton embellished with embroideries, which she implemented in many of the pieces. The collection also features voluminous skirts, lots of lace, peplumed jackets, hats with ethnic details and broad belts and thus combines the folkloric with the classic Dior background.
When you take a look at what Louis Vuitton did for their resort 2019 collection, you will most certainly understand what we meant when we said that the 80´s are considered modern. Nicolas Ghesquière created a collection that included elaborate cuts, cool accessories (look at that over knee-sneaker-tie-up!) and had the perfect balance between eccentric and wearable.
Photos via WGSN