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The resort season is always full of surprises; the fashion houses present their collections in the most amazing locations like Dior, showing its 2018 collection at Chantilly Stables, while riders and horses performed a mesmerising choreography or Karl Lagerfeld taking Chanel’s guests on a passenger ship at the Grand Palais for the Resort 2019 show. This year, the runway shows and locations were as fabulous as one expected, and we are here to share with you the highlights of the resort 2020 season.
Let’s begin with the French house that presented its first show without Karl Lagerfeld. As in previous years, Chanel venue was the Grand Palais in Paris, transformed into a turn-of-the-century train platform. Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s right hand and now head of Chanel, had a huge responsibility in her debut collection and showed that all those years working alongside Lagerfeld paid off.
Her Resort 2020 collection has the designer’s take on all of Chanel’s signature looks. Tweed jackets that she paired with leggings and shorts, the classic label’s skirt suits in towelling tweed, chic pants with wide cropped legs that one could imagine Coco Chanel wearing them, cute dresses in lace, and purses, ballerinas and sweaters with the iconic linked Cs. The last look was a moving homage to the Kaiser; a black halter dress with a stiff white collar that evoked Lagerfeld’s shirts.
Maria Grazia Chiuri chose the exotic ruins of El Badi Palace in Marrakech, torchlit for Dior Resort 2020 show, which of course, made us think of Yves Saint Laurent, who was head of Dior in the ‘60s and had the fabulous Villa Oasis in Marrakech, always packed with his glamorous guests.
Chiuri’s Resort 2020 collection has a chic global nomad feel, she mixes African wax print textiles with luxurious cashmere and silk jacquard, Murano glass beads and raffia embroideries. There were many exciting collaborations to create this resort collection. A women’s textile and ceramic association from Morocco created woven pieces like a coat with fringes, Monsieur Pathé’O, who used to make shirts for Nelson Mandela, created a look with Mandela’s face on the back, British milliner Stephen Jones designed the head turbans with a milliner from Ghana. The collection comes mainly in earthy tones, ochre, garnet and some navy and beige as well, with big lions, birds and other creatures wax-printed.
Miuccia showed Prada Resort 2020 collection in New York for the second time, at the Italian house’s headquarters, the Piano Factory. It was a star-studded event, with Uma Thurman, Diane Kruger and Elle Fanning, to name a few. Prada’s Resort 2020 is straightforward and unpretentious. Prada explained that the collection's "simplicity is a protest against too much.”
It is an easy-to-wear collection, with cotton with handmade embroideries, lovely smock dresses and pantsuits in calico, floral prairie dresses and A-line midi skirts paired with loose striped button-down shirts, plaid jackets and high-top kickers worn with thick socks. The Resort collection with layered silhouettes and mixed prints is atemporal, which means you will be able to wear these pieces over and over again.
Nicholas Ghesquière presents Louis Vuitton Resort collection in amazing locations such as the futuristic Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro, designed by the Brazilian star architect Oscar Niemeyer. For this year’s show, he chose the terminal TWA Flight Center at JFK airport in New York, that was designed by Eero Saarinen in 1962 and will reopen as a hotel next week.
Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2020 is eclectic; we could see influences of the ’60s, ’80s and ’90s, with a pinch of futurism. The looks were glitzy and flamboyant; velvet capes, crystal-studded bustiers, velvet tops with puffed sleeves, bubble skirts and jackets with the iconic Chrysler Building in metallic embroideries. Ghesquière explained he “was getting back to the first feeling I had when I came to New York.”